Archive for the 'Dog Biting' Category



Stop Dog Biting Tips 101

Friday 25 April 2008 @ 12:46 am

How To Stop Your Dog From Biting Other People by Marc Lindsay

PROTECTION DOG TRAINING

A bite suit is an important tool in protection dog training, and is used in most protection dog training programs. When used correctly, the bite suite will assist in protection dog training by helping to develop a dog’s intensity and fighting urges to a more quality level than training with simply a bite sleeve alone. The following paragraphs will discuss some of the ways a bite suit is used in protection dog training programs, and the benefits protection dog training when a bite suit is used.

The best way to begin protection dog training using a bite suit is to work with an experienced trainer. Protection dog training using a bite suit incorrectly can develop undesired behavior and tendencies in the dog being trained. A failure to maintain positive control during protection dog training using a bite suit could very likely result in an unwanted edge in the dog’s demeanor.

When using a bite suit as an aid in protection dog training, there should be a transition period, where the bite suit is introduced from the bite sleeve. During this transition period of protection dog training, the dog must always be on a leash, and the handler must maintain continuous positive control over the dog. Requiring the dog be on a leash during this phase of protection dog training limits his range, and lets the dog reach only the targeted area of training, or the bite zone. The benefits of this type of protection dog training is it teaches the dog exactly where to bite. During this phase of protection dog training, the dog should be encouraged as much as possible by using positive reinforcements, and avoiding negative corrections as much as possible.

With the benefits of using the bite suit during protection dog training being great, there are some things you must realize before protective dog training begins. Protective dog training using a bite suit as a training tool does not correct all protective dog training challenges. The bite suit, when used in protective dog training cannot develop instincts which are not already present in the dog. The bite suit can be used to enhance instincts the dog may already have, and help to produce greater performance, but it should not be considered a cure all tool in difficulties in protection dog training.

Protection Dog Training and Puppy Training product reviews so you know you are only teaching your dog the very best techniques.

Article Source: U Publish Articles

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Dog Bitting 101 Tips

Sunday 6 April 2008 @ 6:29 pm
Is Your Dog Aggressive? What You Should Do

No matter where you live, you may run into dog aggression, and it may be caused by your dog. Sometimes it is between two dogs, whether neighbors or dogs in the same household. Sometimes it involves a dog attacking or biting a human, all too often a child. This article will give you three things you can do if you are dealing with an aggressive dog in your family. It will also provide you with a link to a resource that has much more information on this stressful situation.

First, arrange your dog’s living quarters so he and everyone around him is safe. This means the dog, of course, but it also means all the humans and pets in your family, as well as any other dogs or people that the dog might encounter.

If your dog is already used to a crate, you can use it as part of your plan to manage where he is. If he is not accustomed to a crate, you can try teaching him to use it, by enticing him in with food or dog toys, but be sure that he is okay in it before you leave him alone. Even then, devise a way to check on how he is doing, such as looking in a window. Don’t just dump him in the thing for hours on end, or he may injure himself or do damage to the crate. You can’t leave him in it for many hours.

If you are not using a crate, consider enclosing the dog in some part of your home, whether a dog kennel in your yard or a less-used room in your house. This is a good plan in addition to a crate, as well. If your problem is between two dogs you own, at least at first you will want to have them well separated. One door between them may be okay, but two doors makes it much easier for you to get around.

The second step is to have a good veterinary exam for your dog. It may be that your dog is in pain or has some other physical condition that led to his bad temper. If so, once you get it solved, the aggressiveness itself may cease. If your veterinarian finds nothing, then you know that anyway.

Third, begin writing down short notes about the aggressive incident and what has happened since. Use a little notepad or some paper that you can keep in a convenient place, so it’s easy to make these notes. If you try to go back after a few days to reconstruct what happened, you may find that your memory is a bit unreliable about the timing and other details. This is normal, and all the more so when a situation is stressful. But these scribbles will have a place as you begin to create some new habits for training the dog and managing the situation.

Longer-term planning is the next step, or actually several steps. It may not be easy, but there have been studies done which show that when people who have an aggressive dog are diligent about care and training, the future is much rosier for the dog and all around him.

See Rosana Hart’s longer page on aggressive dogs, Nine Tips If Your Dog Becomes Aggressive. You can also visit the section on her site on dog aggression for more.

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Does Your Dog Bite? How to Protect Your Dog and Yourself from Liability

Friday 7 September 2007 @ 5:30 pm

By Amanda St. John

MuttShack Foundation for Animal Foster and Rescue, claim that
dogs bite more than 4.7 million people every year in the United
States.

The blame could be the dog’s, the owner’s, or the victim’s. But
the one who invariably pays, is the owner. The owner of the dog
becomes responsible for paying for the medical bills, time lost
from work as well as pain and suffering. The one who suffers
most, is the dog that is abandoned in a shelter or disposed of.

Dog owners should assume more than their share of the
responsibility for protecting people and other animals from their
dogs, and also assume the responsibility to protect their dogs
from people. Kids will run up to a dog screaming in delight and
frighten the dog. A dog in his excitement to greet someone may
jump up and scratch him or her. A passer-by may approach a dog
aggressively or provoke him. Neighborhood kids may let the dogs
out just to have some fun.

There is no way to guarantee that your dog will never bite
someone. But you can significantly reduce the risk:

• Spay or neuter your dog. This important and routine procedure
will reduce your dog’s desire to roam and fight with other dogs,
making safe confinement an easier task. Spayed or neutered dogs
are much less likely to bite.

• Socialize your dog. Introduce your dog to many different types
of people and situations so that he or she is not nervous or
frightened under normal social circumstances.

• Train your dog. Accompanying your dog to a training class is an
excellent way to socialize him and to learn proper training
techniques. Training your dog is a family matter. Every member of
your household should learn the training techniques and
participate in your dog’s education. Never send your dog away to
be trained; only you can teach your dog how to behave in your
home. Note that training classes are a great investment even for
experienced dog caregivers.

• Be alert with your dog around children. Rambunctious play may
startle your dog, and he may react by snapping or biting.
Neighborhood children may be attracted to your dog, so make sure
you have a child-proof lock on your gate and there is no way for
little hands to get through the fence.

• Teach your dog appropriate behavior. Never teach your dog to
chase after or attack others, even in fun. Your dog can’t always
understand the difference between play and real-life situations.
Set appropriate limits for your dog’s behavior.

Don’t wait for an accident.

The first time he exhibits dangerous behavior toward any person,
seek professional help from your veterinarian, an animal
behaviorist, or a qualified dog trainer. Dangerous behavior
toward other animals may eventually lead to dangerous behavior
toward people, and is also a reason to seek professional help.

• Be a responsible dog owner. License your dog as required by
law, and provide regular veterinary care, including rabies
vaccinations. For everyone’s safety, don’t allow your dog to roam
alone. Make your dog a member of your family. Dogs who spend a
great deal of time alone in the backyard or tied on a chain often
become dangerous. Dogs who are well socialized and supervised are
much less likely to bite.

• Stay on the safe side. If you don’t know how your dog will
react to a new situation, be cautious. If your dog may panic in
crowds, leave him at home. If your dog overreacts to visitors or
delivery or service personnel, keep him in another room. Work
with professionals to help your dog become accustomed to these
and other situations. Until you are confident of his behavior,
however, avoid stressful settings.

I thought you said your dog doesn’t bite? “That’s not my dog” …
says Peter Sellers.

Seriously, if your dog bites someone, act responsibly; take these
steps to mitigate the harm:

• Confine your dog immediately and check on the victim’s
condition. If necessary, seek medical help.

• Provide the victim with important information, such as the date
of your dog’s last rabies vaccination.

• You should cooperate fully with the animal control official
responsible for acquiring information about your dog. If your dog
must be quarantined for any length of time, ask whether he may be
confined within your home or at your veterinarian’s hospital.
Strictly follow quarantine requirements for your dog.

• Seek professional help to prevent your dog from biting again.
Consult with your veterinarian, who may refer you to an animal
behaviorist or a dog trainer. Your community animal care and
control agency or humane society may also offer helpful services.

If you have to let your dog go, don’t drop him off at a shelter,
where he will only be given a few days to live. Take the time to
find him a new family. To do this there is a support and training
network called MuttShack, at http://www.Muttshack.org, who will
teach you how to re-home your pet.

• If your dog’s dangerous behavior cannot be controlled, and you
have to make the painful decision to give him up, do not give him
to someone else without carefully evaluating that person’s
ability to protect your dog and prevent him from biting. Because
you know your dog is dangerous, you may be held liable for any
damage he does even when he is given to someone else.

• Never give your dog to someone who wants a dangerous dog.
“Mean” dogs are often forced to live miserable, isolated lives,
and become even more likely to attack someone in the future. If
you must give up your dog due to dangerous behavior, consult with
your veterinarian and with your local animal care and control
agency or humane society about your options. Be safe, be
responsible and most importantly, teach your dog to be a good
canine citizen.

• Your dog lives to make you happy. If he understands what you
need from him, he will make you proud.

About Muttshack:
Muttshack Foundation is a 501(c) 3 non-profit, a project of the
National Heritage Foundation, established in 1968. MuttShack
Foster and Animal Rescue promotes the education and creation of
foster homes for abandoned and abused animals.

Muttshackers rescue animals from shelters, rehabilitate and
nurture them to health in homes (MuttShacks) and find them
quality, permanent new families.

By intervening and rescuing shelter animals about to be put to
sleep, MuttShack fostering stops the senseless killing of healthy
animals in overcrowded shelters.

Donations Saves Lives. Visit animals online who are in danger of
being put to sleep at http://www.muttshack.org . Join us in
preventing animals from entering shelters that kill. Support
Muttshack Animal Foster and Rescue Foundation.

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Chewing and Biting

Thursday 6 September 2007 @ 4:02 am

By Karen Peak

CHEWING

Dogs chew for many reasons. Puppies explore with their mouths. Everything and anything will go in. When they begin teething, chewing eases discomfort and helps puppy teeth work their way out. Adults chew for fun, to alleviate boredom, because it feels good. Chewing is natural and to be expected. Your job it to teach your dog to chew only appropriate items.

Make certain you use items approved for dog use. Make certain the items you give your puppy or dog to chew are sturdy and will not be ingested rapidly. Rawhide flips and chips, cow/pigs ears (I give these occasionally as treats but not as regular chews), latex toys (the cute squeaky newspapers and such) are not the best choices. They can be eaten fast, offer no nutritional value and do not give a long lasting, satisfying chew. Some squeaky toys have squeakers that may pull out and choke a puppy. Some dogs are fine with the rolled rawhide bones (also called knotted bones) and retriever rolls (rawhide rolled into rolls with no knots at the end). It all depends on how aggressively your dog chews. Old shoes, socks, old stuffed animals are also a bad choice. Your dog will not know the difference between your $180 running shoes and that old tennis shoe you gave him. Children’s toys will not hold up to a vigorous chewer. Plus, button eyes and noses can be eaten and cause choking or obstruction. I keep all my dog toys in a specific box. The dogs learn that if something is in the box or came from the box it may be played with.

I use pressed rawhide bones (the rawhide is compressed under high pressure into a sturdy bone), the sterilized bones made for dogs (watch Puppy, I have one dog that can break off chunks of these bones so I never let him have one unattended) and rope toys. I also use the fleece chew men (other shapes available) made specifically for dogs. Know your dog and watch how he reacts to various chew toys. Should he shatter a bone or shred a fleece toy, you may wish to change to a different chew or try a different bone or fleece toy. Sometimes, there may be a weakness you did not see. Not every toy is safe for every dog! Choose toys appropriately sized for your dog. I would never think of using a four-inch bone with my Australian Shepherd-Newfoundland cross. It is just too small and he could choke. However, that giant, four-foot rawhide bone may dwarf my Sheltie’s mouth!

Get a variety of toys and rotate every day or two so there are always “new” toys out. This way, Puppy has a variety of toys and you do not have to buy dozens of toys to keep Puppy entertained.

Should you see Puppy chewing something inappropriate, use a loud, firm, growly “NO! LEAVE IT!” and take the item away. Now IMMEDIATELY get a good chew and encourage Puppy to take it. Once he does praise lavishly. Remember, you must catch Puppy in the act so the correction will be effective. A good thing to have on hand is one of the no chewing products. There are a variety of sprays and ointments to deter chewing. Find one your puppy really hates and spray items if necessary. Do not spray it directly into Puppy’s mouth. That is cruel. Follow the directions on the product.

Teaching appropriate items to chew can save a life. Puppies will chew electrical cords, bottles of poison, plants, objects that can cause intestinal obstructions. They have to learn what is good and bad. The safest things are prevention. Keep poisons out of reach. Hide cords (some home improvement places even carry cord cover as do places that sell baby proofing items) and check to see if your plants are nontoxic. Many garden centers have lists of toxic plants. Basically, puppy-proof (and doggy-proof) as if you had a precocious
toddler around! It is far better to prevent an incident than to treat one!

Should you think Puppy ingested a poison or ate something that could either cause a blockage or intestinal damage (pins, needles, nails, nylons, fishing line, coins, rocks, antifreeze, household cleaners, plants, etc.) call your vet immediately.

PUPPY BITING

It is never a good idea to let Puppy play with your hands or feet - no matter how cute it seems. This teaches Puppy it is OK to bite skin. Even though tiny puppies playing tug-of-war with your big finger is cute, it is teaching a very bad habit! Never let a puppy do something once that you do not want him to repeat. It is far easier to prevent bad habits from developing that it is to retrain an older puppy or adult dog. Here are two techniques to teach puppy not bite. Technique #1 is less physical and I recommend it first. It may take a few days or so for puppy to catch on. Technique #2 involves physically stopping puppy. Some puppies (or dogs) may actually perceive this as a challenge to try again so I do not
recommend it is as much.

Technique #1 - yelp and walk away:

Puppies are very social creatures and refusing to engage in play can be an effective training technique. As soon as puppy starts to bite or nip, give a loud, yelping OUCH!!! Glare at the pup, get up and move away. After a minute or so, get a toy and return to puppy. Encourage the puppy to play with the toy. If he goes for you with a nip, repeat yelping and walking away.

Technique #2 - shake can:

If puppy does not respond to a verbal command only, try a shake can. Get an empty and clean soda can and place about 10 pennies in it. Tape the mouth shut. When your pup starts to nip, give the verbal command and at the same time give the can a good shake or drop it next to puppy (not on him please). This will help reinforce the verbal command. As soon as he stops, praise and give him a good toy to chew.

Technique #3 - shake down:

If Techniques 1 and 2 fail, then try this. I am not as fond of it as it involves physically grabbing the pup for reinforcing the “No Bite!”. Start with a loud yelping OUCH; at the same time as you grasp the loose skin on puppy’s neck. Give a firm scruff but not a shake and firmly say “NO BITE!” Do not pull puppy up and away, just scruff him. Release puppy and get him involved with a good toy. After a while, stop the scruff and just use the verbal.

Play Initiated Nipping

Certain games encourage biting and should be avoided when working on “No Bite”: tug-of-war (my dogs are not allowed to play this with humans until they are well aware of the “pack hierarchy” and will release the toy when told to.); chase and tackle games; and other games where you actively encourage the puppy to bite a person. Dangling treats and encouraging a puppy to jump for then can encourage snapping for food as well as injure growing joints. If you play tug-of-war make certain YOU start the game and YOU stop it. If puppy brings you a toy and encourages you to play, reverse the rules (see NILIF below).

Nothing in Life is Free:

It is also a good idea to get your puppy used to working for things - even play time. Before you feed puppy, have him sit and then feed. Do the same before leashing up for a walk. If the puppy brings a toy and asks you to play, turn tables and do a bit of training then play. Puppy learns that if he listens and obeys and does something, there will be a reward. This also helps establish humans as higher in the pack order.

Should your dog continue to bite and not respond or if the biting is accompanied with aggression, growling or anything you do not like, contact a behaviorist. Also, have your dog examined by a vet. There could be an underlying factor for the biting. A dog that is sore or not feeling well may bite. It is his way of saying something is not right. Also, a poorly socialized or scared dog is more prone to bite, as is a startled one. Teach your children NEVER EVER touch a dog, even one they know, without the owner’s permission. Teach them never to handle a stray or loose animal, even if they know it. Children should contact a grown-up instead. Teach children not to tease or hurt dogs. Even the most tolerant dog can be pushed past his limit and retaliate. Even if the children are plainly at fault, it will be the dog that suffers. Prevention is the key.

From Karen Peak of West Wind Dog Training,

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